The origin of the name Tortolì is of uncertain derivation. One of the many hypotheses is that the name translates as "Land of the Doves", while according to another hypothesis, the name can derive from Ilium, because it was founded by the Trojans escaping away. What is certain is that the Pisans then called the country "Tortohelie".
The traces of the first settlements date back to the Neolithic period, 6000-2900 B.C. The pagan cult of the pre-nuragic people is indicated by the presence of megalithic vestiges such as menhirs and domus de janas. In the area of Tortolì and more generally in the surrounding territory, the presence of more than 200 monuments of the nuragic times (nuraghis, tombs of the giants, holy wells) document the flourishing of major settlements facilitated by the richness of the territory, the abundance of water and food resources.
The arrival of the Romans is dated in the mid-third century B.C., during the First Punic War. In the first century of the empire when Pliny certified that Sardinia had 18 oppida, ie cities with rights of res publica. Traces of Roman settlements were found near the church of San Lussorio and in the area to the right of the SS 125 towards Girasole, adjacent to the bend of the lagoon where the ancient Punic and later Roman port was located. Other important remains are represented by numerous findings of Roman shipwrecks and their cargoes in the waters off the Gulf of Arbatax. Later, when the invasion of the Vandals from North Africa was extended onto Sardinia, this ended the Roman ruling in the year 455.
In addition to the four major Judges (Cagliari, Torres, Gallura e Arborea) between the tenth and XI secolo centuries there was also the small Judge of Agugliastra with capital Tortolì. Around 1080 the small Rennu ogliastrino was absorbed by the Judge of Cagliari and in that kingdom then followed the vicissitudes of the expansion of Pisa in the central southern part of the island and the vicissitudes of the competition between Genoa and Pisa for the control of Sardinia.
The Judge of Agugliastra was interested in the war events in March 1166, when a formation of nine Genoese galleys under the command of console Oberto Recalcato was attacked and rejected by a Pisan fleet composed of 17 galee in the Gulf of Arbatax. Following the series of events of the war and the capitulation of the Villa di Chiesa the current city of Iglesias, on May 10 th, 1324, the Judge of Ogliastra was assigned to the county of Quirra.
The feud was completed on February 20 th, 1325, with the act of “feud assignment” (infeudazione) of the villages of Tortolì and Lotzorai to Francescos Carroz granted by James II of Aragon.
The Spanish domination lasted until the eighteenth century when, after a brief Austrian domination, Sardinia was assigned to the Savoy, who took possession of the Kingdom of Sardinia, then merged into the Regno d'Italia. In the period 1835-1838, King Carlo Alberto promulgated laws aimed at the abolition of the feuds: 180 communities, including Tortolì became free towns. In this period, Tortolì, took today's urban layout with its beautiful buildings, which had its focal point in the central square around which there were merchant shops and pubs.
Placed in the heart of Ogliastra, Tortolì is located in a vast plain that stretches out towards the sea. The interest in the area is given both by the numerous historical and artistic treasures and by the natural wonders characterizing its coasts.
The highlight of the city lies in its beautiful scenery, with its coastline and wonderful features and numerous recreational facilities in the area, which make Tortolì one of the most important tourist centers of the east coast of Sardinia.
The east area is overlooking the sea with its long sandy beaches and renowned granite sand. The first, starting from the north bordering Lotzorai, is bounded by the pond Tortolì and is called Riva di ponente. It is more than a kilometer long and is bordered by a fine pine forest behind the channel of Baccasara.
Facing south-east, protected by the mistral wind coming from the headland of Bellavista there is the beach of Portu Frailis. Made up of sand and smooth rocks is completely inserted in the urban fabric of the city near the Saracen tower and the church of San Gemiliano. Among other beaches we should certainly mention Basaùra, Cea and the Lido di Orrì, with their fine and white sand.
Among the many historical sites dotting the area, we recommend to visit the nuragic complex of “S'Ortali 'e Su Monti”, in the plain behind the beach of Orrì. The complex includes a nuraghe monotorre with rampart and adjoining village, a tomb of giants, three menhirs and a second set of walls.
Tortolì also has a good amount of green areas distributed in the various districts of the city and every one of them is usually equipped with games for children, lighting and parking. The most important is undoubtedly the area of the Piazza Rinascita, located in the city center close to the main shopping streets of the village, with a large car park, and closeby to the post office and police station.
Along the road between Tortolì and Arbatax you can visit the large urban park "La Sughereta" made out of the remains of the great forest of oaks and cork trees that covered the plain of Tortolì. Seven hectares of the park have been fenced and equipped with the necessary facilities and trails for lifestyle and fitness.
The land is also rich of coastal towers: in the sixteenth century, in fact, the town was fortified to protect it from the coasts raids of the Moorish. As evidence of this fragment of history the Tower of San Michele (XVI century) and San Gemiliano (XVI-XVII century) remain.
With regards to the vegetation around Tortolì, there are two different main areas: the forest and the Mediterranean maquis, with the last prevailing. From heather to rosemary , from lavender to juniper, from mastic to broom, are all plants which are plentiful in the region. Going up at higher altitude and a little bit away from the sea the forest comes in, with pines and oaks dominating the area. From plants we switch to flowers, with several species of rare orchids and wild rose with a typical pink color.
The fauna of the area of Ogliastra and Tortolì, unfortunately has been considerably depleted in recent years, there are many species of mammals, reptiles, fish and birds: we recall the Sardinian deer, the wild boar and the Sardinian hare.
An ancient legend says that in the vicinity of a tower there was a cannon, which would send three cannoballs in different directions and, where they fell it would be later built three rural churches: the church of San Gemiliano, San Lussorio and San Salvatore.
For those loving the tradition it is possible to visit, at the junction between Arbatax and Porto Frailis, the former keeper's cottage made of granite in 1800, which houses Sa Contonera, a permanent ethnographic exhibition that displays about a thousand objects of the city's tradition, tools, laces and crochets. Other places of artistic/architectural interest are:
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The Cathedral Church of St. Andrew, dating from the seventeenth century but built on an existing church building from the twelfth century;
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The Church of St. Anne in the Cathedral Square;
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The Church of St. Joseph in the district of Monte Attu;
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The Church of St. Antonio Abate of the twelfth century, with a private owner but still consecrated. Once upon a time the Crown of the Logu of Judge of Agugliastra met there;
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The Palace of the Counts Quigini-Puliga former Bishop Diocese in Via Vittorio Emanuele, current location of the town library;
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The Ancient Blocchiera Falchi, close to the Town Hall, the location of cultural events and art exhibitions.
In 1995, the open Museum of Contemporary Art "Su logu de s'iscultura" was founded; in it the sculpture talks with the nature in a direct relationship between the individual and the work of art. In this structure, you can see works of Mauro Staccioli, Antonio Levolella, Umberto Mariani, Ascanio Renda, Maria Lai, Nitetoski Nagasawa.
Tortolì is also known for its food and wine tradition that hooks to its agro-pastoral origins. So this is a humble cuisine, with ingredients used such wisely to make the dishes absolutely delicious. Even today, the preparation of some dishes, such as traditional culurgionis, whose recipes have been handed down from generation to generation, is considered almost a ritual.
Even the town festivals are linked to the agriculture and pastoral origin of Tortolì and as such appear as moments of thanksgiving for the fecundity of the flocks and the abundance of crops. The most important feasts are called "Is festas de sartu" and are dedicated to San Lussorio, San Gemiliano and San Salvatore, all with the same rhythm. Typically the festivities begin on Friday with the auction of the yoke in the square of St. Andrew. The buyer usually is someone wanting to express his/her gratitude for a grace received. The winner of the auction, with the yoke on his/her shoulders, parades in procession to his home, where he celebrates by offering refreshments. The yoke will be used the next day for yoking the oxen carrying the statue of the saint in procession to the little country church dedicated to him, where the whole party continues.